Taylor Swift Snakes Reputation Leotard Part 3 [Finishing]

Part 3 of our Taylor Swift Reputation Leotard tutorial, this post shows you how to finish assembling and embellishing the bodysuit.

Here we are, at the final post in my series on making Taylor Swift’s Reputation Era outfit!

If you ended up here directly, be sure to read Reputation Outfit Part 1: Supplies, Patterning, and Piecing and Reputation Outfit Part 2: Applique and Assembly.

This post won’t make any sense at all, without those two posts first!

At this point - in theory - you have a half assembled Reputation outfit - covered in red snakes - just waiting for the final sewing steps and the crystalling!

For the most part, the most difficult work is done by now, so making this iconic look should be smooth sailing from here on out!

We’re going to start out by attaching the collar and installing a zipper.

From there, we’re finishing the structure and sewing the leg opening, before doing final touches to the construction.

Then, we’re on to the rhinestones!

From there, you just have to wait a few days for the glue to fully cure, and you’re DONE!

Anyway, still a fair amount to do, so let’s get to it!

How to Finish Your Reputation Snakes Bodysuit

Sew the Shoulder Seams

Lay out your bodysuit so that the right side of the front section is facing up.

Fold the back pieces in at the side seams, so that the shoulders of the back are matched up with the shoulders on the front, and the center back opening (where the zipper will go) is mostly centered over the front piece.

Pin each set of shoulder seams together, then use the techniques in How to Sew Spandex With or Without a Serger to sew each of the shoulder seams.

Be sure to match up any applique that you have going over the shoulder!

Attach the Collar

Fold your collar in half to find the center front point of it, mark it with a pin on the raw edge (not the folded side).

Fold the front of your bodysuit in half - matching up the shoulders - and mark the center front point with another pin.

Pin your collar piece - right side down, facing the right side of the bodysuit - matching up the 2 center front pins.

Using the techniques in How to Sew Spandex With or Without a Serger, sew your collar to the bodysuit.

You can use either a serger or a regular machine for this.

I like to sew it with the collar piece on top, as I find it easier to manoeuver than if you have the bulk of the bodysuit on top.

Either way, line up the end of your collar with the center back of the bodysuit, and sew a few stitches to anchor the collar down.

Then, stretch the bodysuit and collar together to line everything up, and sew along to the mid point.

Once you approach the center front, drop the needle and take out your pin.

Hold the end of the collar to the remaining center back bodysuit corner (where the neckline meets the zipper opening), stretch everything together to line it all up, and sew to the end.

Install the Zipper

Following one set of instructions in my How to Sew an Invisible Zipper post, install a zipper in the center back of the outfit.

As a note: When I wrote that post - as a lead up for this one - I assumed that Taylor’s outfit used an invisible zipper.

I was wrong - it uses a stronger coil zipper instead. Bonus points to her fashion team for that, I always appreciate when someone will put function over appearance!

Anyway - especially if you’re new to sewing spandex - your best bet is to go with the lightweight coil zipper.

It’s far more durable than the invisible zippers.

You’re spending a decent amount of time making this suit, using a more durable zipper goes a long way to ensuring that your time wearing it is a GOOD time!

Anyway, once you’ve got your choice of zipper installed following one of my sets of directions on that page, line up the center back seam, from the zipper down to the leg.

Sew the center back seam - as described in the zipper post - from the zipper all the way to where the center back seam ends at the top of the legs.

Finishing the Zipper Opening

Hold the top / side edges of the zipper back against the inside of the collar, as sewn.

Using a hand sewing needle, stitch the zipper down to the collar.

I like to keep my stitches shallow, just catching the first layer or so of the collar - NOT stitching all the way through to the front.

Once you’ve got the zipper edge stitched down nicely, sew in one half of a hook-and-eye set.

If you’re sewing the hook side, be sure that the hook is curving back away from the wrong side of the outfit, as pictured:

Once you’ve got that side done, repeat on the other side of the collar: stitching the zipper down, then adding the other side of the hook and eye set.

Good news: That concludes the hand-sewing portion of this tutorial!

Sew the Remaining Structural Seams

Fold your bodysuit so that the full - long - leg is folded in half, with the inseam edges on top of each other.

Mark the “high point” of the crotch curve on the front piece of the bodysuit - the point where the curve turns around and aims toward the short leg.

Pin the bottom of the center back seam to this high point on the front.

Using the How to Sew Spandex With or Without a Serger techniques, sew the full leg seam.

You can start at either end, but it’s probably a bit easier to start at the short leg end.

In this case, you’d match up the bottom of the short inseams, and sew to the point where the center back seam is pinned to the front.

Remove your pin, and continue sewing all the way to the end of the long inseam, at the ankle of the full leg.

Hem the Full Leg

Once the combined leg seam has been sewn, you can hem the bottom edge of the full leg.

I like to run a basic serger seam along the bottom edge - stretching a bit as I sew it - before flipping back about ½" and stitching it down with a wide zig zag, medium stitch length.

If you don’t have a serger, you can use a zig zag on the edge for that first round. It just holds the edges of the lining and outer spandex together, so it’ll be easier and cleaner to hem!

Attach the Sleeve

Following the “Set-In Sleeves” directions in my How to Attach Sleeves post, sew the sleeve into the bodysuit.

Apply Elastic to the Arm Hole

Following the arm hole directions in my How to Apply Elastic tutorial, sew your ⅜" elastic into the arm hole of the Reputation bodysuit.

Once the elastic is sewn in, flip it over and stitch it down with a zig zag, as described in that tutorial.

Look at that! You’re almost done the sewing part!

Fit the Short Leg

If you don’t have a mannequin the same size as the person who’s going to be wearing this Reputation leotard, this next part will be a 2 person job:

Have the person who will be wearing the final outfit try it on, wearing whatever undergarments they plan to wear with the finished outfit.

Pin your desired leg opening right onto the suit, as they’re wearing it.

I did a leg opening that was pretty faithful to Taylor’s original outfit, maybe a bit “cheekier”.

The best part about making custom outfits is that you can do whatever you want to make them your own. If you want a more modest leg, go for it!

Once pinned, trim along your desired edge - being sure to leave a ⅜"-½" allowance for the elastic you’ll be sewing in.

Finish the Short Leg

Following the leg opening set of directions in the How to Apply Elastic post, sew elastic into the new leg opening:

Once the elastic is sewn in, flip it over and zig zag it down, as described:

...And there you have it: The finished base of your Reputation outfit!

The next step is the final step: Blinging it out!

Rhinestonning

Before getting starting on blinging your Reputation bodysuit, I recommend reading the entirety of my Crystalling on Spandex tutorial.

Yes, there’s a lot of information - but if you’re new to rhinestones on spandex, it’s everything you’ll need to know to ensure success. You don’t want your crystals falling off on your first wearing!

Also: Remember that I’ve got the rhinestone sizes, colours, recommended quantities, and links on the Reputation Outfit Part 1: Supplies, Patterning, and Piecing post.

Rhinestone the Front

I like to start with the thickest section of snakes - on the front - and work my way out.

Once your outfit is on your choice of stretcher, apply dots of your glue to the red parts of one or two of the red snakes that have white edging.

Note: Be sure to work in small sections at a time, so your glue doesn’t skin over as you work!.

Use your rhinestone picker to place *Siam* - the lighter red - rhinestones on these dots of glue.

(See the end of this post for a video on how I do it!)

If you’re not experienced with crystaling - or are a bit of a klutz - I recommend letting sections dry before proceeding. It can be VERY easy to put your hand into a glued/rhinestoned section of the suit, if you’re not careful.

Other than that, I recommend working in the direction that makes the most sense for avoiding it.

As I’m right handed, I’ll work in sections going left to right across the work area. This tends to keep my working hand OUT of the wet glue!

Anyway, when you’re ready to do so, make slightly smaller dots of glue that are closer together, along the outside edge of the white trimmed snakes.

Glue down the smaller, clear rhinestones in these glue dots.

Continue rhinestoning the front of the bodice - taking breaks to let it dry as necessary - keeping to the colour scheme:

2 tone snakes get Siam on the inside and clear around the border, and the snakes without a white border get Dark Siam rhinestones.

Once you’ve got the entire front of your suit done, let it dry for at LEAST 24 hours (3 days is best!), before proceeding.

You’ll be crystalling the back side next - which means your current round of rhinestones will be face down on your work surface.

The glue connection will be kind of fragile for the first couple of days - best to let it set up good and strong before stressing it!

Rhinestone the Back of the Bodysuit

Following the same techniques and colour scheme as the front, crystal the entire back of your Reputation outfit.

Let it dry for at least 24 hours - ideally 3 days - before taking it off your stretcher.

Rhinestone the Sleeve

You might need to get creative when stretching your sleeve out.

I’ve always found cardboard boxes to be best - ideally ones that are as long as the arm / longer, without any folds.

I did not have any, at the time I crystalled this suit - so I had to MacGuyver a sleeve stretcher that didn’t bend at any folds.

2 part image showing a cardboard makeshift form for stretching the sleeve, then the sleeve stretched over it.

Sometimes you have to get creative when stretching your garment for rhinestoning!

Once you have a stretcher that’s the right shape and size (a little bigger than the finished sleeve), pull your sleeve over it.

If there’s any area that’s not held tight - usually around the top / shoulder - pin it such that everything is flat and under a small amount of tension.

A close up view of the top of the stretched sleeve, with pins holding the wider part in place.

If there are any loose areas, pin it to stretch it out flat.

Rhinestone one side of the sleeve as much as you can - Siam rhinestones on the red, and smaller clear rhinestones around the edge.

Allow to dry for at least 24 hours before turning it over and crystalling the remaining sections of the sleeve snake.

Then, just let the whole thing dry for 3 days before taking removing pins and taking it off the stretcher.

DONE!!!

Break out the red lipstick, baby - You’re now in possession of a completed Reputation bodysuit!

I hope you have the time of your life... or, should I say, of your wildest dreams ;).

Just be sure to take care of it, so you can get the best longevity out of your work. See Proper Care of Spandex Costumes for everything you need to know!

Enjoy!

Reputation Leotard Part 3

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