How to Make a V Cut Bikini Bottom

A V Cut Bikini Bottom is a popular choice for fitness models, posing suits, and the beach. Here's a tutorial on how to make them!

This tutorial is excerpted from “Spandex Simplified: Fitness & Bodybuilding” by Marie Porter. All photos and accompanying tutorial are copyright @2013 Marie Porter, all rights reserved.

Today's tutorial is for a bikini bottom I've been making for almost 20 years at this point.

I designed this pattern back in 2002-ish, specifically for my fitness and bodybuilding clients, as a posing suit bottom.

Much like with the Teardrop String Bikini Top Tutorial I posted earlier - or my Strappy Underwire Bikini Top - sometimes they'd be done in just basic spandex, as an unadorned posing suit.

Other times, I’d cover them with a TON of crystals. For certain routine costumes or cosplay, I've even appliqued them - More info on crystalling and applique at the end of this post!

Either way, this bikini bottom makes a beautiful, flatting base for whatever you're doing with it.

It’s very high cut, with deep Vs at the center front and back, and a great taper on the sides.

Let's get to it!

What You Need to Make a V Cut Posing Suit Pattern

Pattern

The information on this post is based on my downloadable PDF Pattern #104 - V Cut Bottom Pattern.

This is available for purchase on my Etsy shop or on my main blog’s Downloads Section

The techniques should work for most V cut bikini patterns, but if you’re using a different pattern, you’ll want to consult their info for material requirements.

Materials Needed

Note: Amounts are given under the assumption that you are buying fabric specifically for this project, rather than using scraps, etc you have on hand.

If making a competition suit, we strongly recommend making a practice suit first, to check fit. Side lengths can be lengthened or shorted as needed, before making the final suit.

½ yard 4 way stretch spandex
½ yard swimsuit lining
⅜" Braided elastic
Thread to match spandex

Equipment Needed

Sewing machine with straight stitch and zig zag
Serger (optional)
Scissors

How to Make V Cut Bikini Bottom

Get Everything Ready

Making sure that your print setting is set to "actual size"- not "fit”- print your pattern. (If your print setting defaults to “fit” and you don’t change it for this print, your pattern will print too small)

Tape the pattern together, as indicated on the pattern pieces.

Using the pattern size you want, cut out the pieces needed:

      a.) Front piece from both spandex of choice, and lining
      b.) Back piece from both spandex of choice, and lining.

Be sure to cut the pieces so that the greatest degree of stretch is in the direction indicated on the pattern, and that the pattern is placed on a fold, as indicated.

Sew Your Seams

There are two main ways to assemble the pieces to the bottom.

Both work well, but the “pro” method produces a cleaner-looking interior, with all seam edges hidden between the lining and the outer fabric.

Basic Method

Stitch the front lining piece to the wrong side of the outer fabric at the bottom and side seams.

Repeat for the back piece. (As you get used to making these, you won’t need to pre-stitch them! This just makes it easier for beginners.)

With the lining secured to the outer fabric, lay your front and back pieces together, with the right sides of the outer fabric facing.

Sew front to back at both side seams, and the bottom (crotch) seam, either as a straight & zig-zag seam, or serged. Flip suit right side out.

"Pro" Method of layering the lining.

Pro method

Layer your pieces on a flat surface, as follows:

- Outer fabric back piece, right side up
- Outer fabric front piece, right side down
- Lining front piece (Right side up, if applicable)
- Lining back piece (Right side down, if applicable)

Pin everything together at side seams and crotch seam.

Sew together at side and crotch seams, either as a straight & zig zag seam, or serged.

Once all 3 seams are sewn, flip suit around/out, so that the right side (spandex) is facing outward.

Leg Opening Elastic Application

Prepare the Elastic

Measure the amount of elastic to use right off the garment. To do this, lay the elastic down along the front leg opening, following the curve and being careful to only stretch it very slightly.

After getting the front measurement, lay the elastic in a straight line from the bottom edge of the leg opening, to the side of the front leg opening.

Cut two pieces of elastic at this length (front + back together).

If you’d like, sew one end of one of the pieces of elastic to the other end of itself.

Be sure not to twist the elastic, it should make a continuous loop.

Repeat for the other piece. Personally, I like to freehand it... but a loop can be easier for beginners to work with.

Sew the Leg Elastic In

Lay the garment at your sewing machine so that the front of it is being fed in, with the back piece behind the machine - as pictured - with the wrong side facing up.

At the crotch seam, line the elastic up with the edge of the fabric, and have your machine set to a wide and long zig-zag stitch.

Alternatively, use a serger set to a fairly long stitch length - pictured.

Sew the elastic to the front portion of the panty, (wrong side) stretching both pieces as you go. You should stretch the elastic ever so slightly more than the fabric, but stretch both well.

Keep the elastic lined up with the side edge as you go.

When you get to the side seam, stop sewing, and straighten the elastic out so that it continues to lay across the leg opening. It will be much shorter than the actual fabric.

While firmly holding the elastic and suit near where you stopped, stretch the upcoming section of suit and elastic together, till they match up. Find the approximate mid point of both the fabric and the elastic, and hold them together.

Sew from the side seam to the mid point, stretching the elastic to match up with the edge, and then some (the fabric should also be stretching, just not as much - proportionately - as the elastic.)

When you reach the mid point, you can let go of it, and grasp the original start point.

Stretch the elastic and fabric once again, and sew the rest of the way around the leg opening.

If you did not make a loop with the elastic before beginning, overlap the end of the elastic over the starting edge by about ½", stitch to secure.

Cut the threads close to the fabric.

Repeat with the other leg, starting at the hip seam, rather than the crotch seam.

V Waistline Elastic Application

Make a small cut at the centre of the “V” front, as pictured. It should cut through both the lining and the outer fabric, but be no more than about ¼" long.

Repeat for the V on the back side of the suit.

Line the suit up at your sewing machine or serger (serger pictured), with the V at the foot.

Fold back the section on the side of the cut that is further away from you - you don’t want to snag it with the stitches.

Line up a length of elastic that starts about 1" before the section of fabric on your side of the V - see photo:

Start sewing or serging the elastic along the edge of the fabric, beginning at the cut itself - not where the elastic starts.

Stretch elastic slightly as you sew, as with the leg application.

When you come to the V on the opposite side of the suit, fold over the side of the V that is closest to you so that it doesn’t get sewn over, and continue sewing elastic to the edge of the fabric - extend the elastic for about 1" beyond the cut - See photo below.

Repeat elastic application on the other side of the suit, making sure to not sew over the ends of the elastic already sewn.

Flip the suit right side out, if it’s not already.

At one of the V intersections, grasp one side of elastic in each hand, and pull them back to form a V that points the opposite direction to how the elastic was sewn. It should be roughly the same angle as the opening of the suit - see below.

Stitch the new V in place, sewing both sides of the original cut down to the elastic, as shown below. Trim any excess elastic, forming a neat V shape.

Repeat with the other V.

Flip & Stitch the Elastic

With one of the leg elastics, turn the elastic over so that the exposed elastic is touching the wrong side of the fabric, and the underside of the seam you just did is facing up.

Sew another seam along the edge of the elastic (NOT the new edge of the opening). Stretch the garment as you sew this seam.

This seam can be done in a wide or narrow zig-zag (I don’t like using straight stitches on an elastic). Personally, I like to use a very wide zig-zag stitch, with a medium stitch length.

When sewing this finishing seam, try to make sure that the fabric does not bunch up and pucker under.

To avoid this, pull the garment fabric to the left as you sew, making sure that the fabric lies close to the elastic on the top, with no excess in the fold over.

Don't worry if your stitching isn't perfect. The elastic will stretch and straighten out a bit when the suit is worn, so imperfections are not all that noticeable. Practice makes perfect!

Alternatively, you can sew the flipped finishing seam with the suit facing right side up - this is how I prefer to do it.

Flip the elastic edge under, and position the suit under your presser foot.

Hold the back part of the suit with your left hand, hook the fingers of your right hand under the upcoming part of the suit, between the elastic and the suit.

Use those fingers to straighten everything out and pull the suit fabric taut against the elastic as it feeds through your sewing machine.

Stay stitch (reverse and then forward) at the beginning and continue along, stay stitching again when you loop around and reach the point where you started.

Repeat with the other leg.

Top Stitching the Waist Elastic

Starting at one of the side seams, follow the same directions as the legs.

As you approach the first V, be sure to straighten out the elastic and fabric, stretching to smooth everything.

The V that you created in the last step of the elastic application will hold the shape as you stitch around it, pivoting at the centre of the dip:

Continue stitching the elastic down as you cross the second hip seam.

Repeat the "flip, stretch, hold, pivot" thing at the second V.

Finish off where you started, with a few stay stitches.

To Attach Posing Suit Loops, If Desired

Using leftover “string” or strap from your bikini top (Separate patterns), cut 2 pieces, about 3" long each.

Try the posing suit on, pinning or tying the tops’ neck straps / strings in place.

Cris-cross the long, torso strap/strings behind your back, pinning to where you will eventually want them to connect to the bottom of your posing suit - usually about halfway between the side seam, and the centre back of your suit.

Pin the bottoms in these two places, making sure they’re symmetrical.

Fold one string / strap piece in half, and - using the pins as a guide - stitch to the underside of the waistline elastic, letting the loop end extend slightly beyond the edge of the suit.

Repeat on the other side.

Crystalling Your V Cut Bikini Bottom

If you are crystalling your bikini bottom, you'll want to do it after you're completely finished sewing it.

See my post "Crystalling on Spandex" for more details on how to do it!

A past client wearing a crystalled version of this bikini.

Appliquing your V Cut Bikini Bottom

If you're wanting to applique your bikini bottom, it's generally best to do that before sewing it together. Usually, I'll bond the lining to the main fabric, and applique through both layers, but that's personal preference.

See my post "How to Applique Spandex" for all the details on how to applique your bikini top.

Note: While it's not covered in that post, it's important to keep in mind that you'll be losing about ½" on each edge to the elastic being flipped over.

So, when designing your applique, it's best to draw those measurements in as guides, keeping your design within them.

These are a couple of examples of appliqued bikini using a similar pattern. The Stargazer bikini was done using my basic applique technique, the monarch with reverse applique.

Print

How to Make V Cut Bikini Bottoms

A V Cut Bikini Bottom is a popular choice for fitness models, posing suits, and the beach. Here's a tutorial on how to make them!

Prep Time5 minutes mins

Active Time30 minutes mins

Total Time35 minutes mins

Keyword: bikini making, bikini string, how to make a bikini, how to make a posing suit, how to make a string bikini, posing suit

Yield: 1 bikini bottom

Cost: 10

Equipment

• Sewing machine with straight stitch and zig zag
• Serger (Optional)
• Scissors

Materials

• ½ yard 4 way stretch spandex
• ½ yard swimsuit lining
• ⅜ " Braided elastic
• Thread to match spandex

Instructions

Get Everything Ready

• Making sure that your print setting is set to "actual size"- not "fit”- print your pattern. (If your print setting defaults to “fit” and you don’t change it for this print, your pattern will print too small)
• Tape the pattern together, as indicated on the pattern pieces.
• Using the pattern size you want, cut out the pieces needed:

  a.) Front piece from both spandex of choice, and lining

  b.) Back piece from both spandex of choice, and lining.
• Be sure to cut the pieces so that the greatest degree of stretch is in the direction indicated on the pattern, and that the pattern is placed on a fold, as indicated.

Sew Your Seams

• There are two main ways to assemble the pieces to the bottom.
• Both work well, but the “pro” method produces a cleaner looking interior, with all seam edges hidden between the lining and the outer fabric.
• Basic Method
• Stitch the front lining piece to the wrong side of the outer fabric at the bottom and side seams.
• Repeat for the back piece. (As you get used to making these, you won’t need to pre-stitch them! This just makes it easier for beginners.)
• With the lining secured to the outer fabric, lay your front and back pieces together, with right sides of outer fabric facing.
• Sew front to back at both side seams, and the bottom (crotch) seam, either as a straight & zig zag seam, or serged. Flip suit right side out.
• Pro method
• Layer your pieces on a flat surface, as follows:

  - Outer fabric back piece, right side up

  - Outer fabric front piece, right side down

  - Lining front piece (Right side up, if applicable)

  - Lining back piece (Right side down, if applicable)
• Pin everything together at side seams and crotch seam.
• Sew together at side and crotch seams, either as a straight & zig zag seam, or serged.
• Once all 3 seams are sewn, flip suit around/out, so that the right side (spandex) is facing outward.

Leg Opening Elastic Application

• Measure the amount of elastic to use right off the garment. To do this, lay the elastic down along the front leg opening, following the curve and being careful to only stretch it very slightly.
• After getting the front measurement, lay the elastic in a straight line from the bottom edge of the leg opening, to the side of the front leg opening.
• Cut two pieces of elastic at this length (front + back together).
• If you’d like, sew one end of one of the pieces of elastic to the other end of itself.
• Be sure not to twist the elastic, it should make a continuous loop.
• Repeat for the other piece. Personally, I like to freehand it... but a loop can be easier for beginners to work with.

Sew the Leg Elastic In

• Lay the garment at your sewing machine so that the front of it is being fed in, with the back piece behind the machine - as pictured - with the wrong side facing up.
• At the crotch seam, line the elastic up with the edge of the fabric, and have your machine set to a wide and long zig zag stitch.
• Alternatively, use a serger set to a fairly long stitch length - pictured.
• Sew the elastic to the front portion of the panty, (wrong side) stretching both pieces as you go. You should stretch the elastic ever so slightly more than the fabric, but stretch both well.
• Keep the elastic lined up with the side edge as you go.
• When you get to the side seam, stop sewing, and straighten the elastic out so that it continues to lay across the leg opening. It will be much shorter than the actual fabric.
• While firmly holding the elastic and suit near where you stopped, stretch the upcoming section of suit and elastic together, till they match up. Find the approximate mid point of both the fabric and the elastic, and hold them together.
• Sew from the side seam to the mid point, stretching the elastic to match up with the edge, and then some (the fabric should also be stretching, just not as much - proportionately - as the elastic.)
• When you reach the mid point, you can let go of it, and grasp the original start point.
• Stretch the elastic and fabric once again, and sew the rest of the way around the leg opening.
• If you did not make a loop with the elastic before beginning, overlap the end of the elastic over the starting edge by about ½", stitch to secure.
• Cut the threads close to the fabric.
• Repeat with the other leg, starting at the hip seam, rather than the crotch seam.

V Waistline Elastic Application

• Make a small cut at the centre of the “V” front, as pictured. It should cut through both the lining and the outer fabric, but be no more than about ¼" long.
• Repeat for the V on the back side of the suit.
• Line the suit up at your sewing machine or serger (serger pictured), with the V at the foot.
• Fold back the section on the side of the cut that is further away from you - you don’t want to snag it with the stitches.
• Line up a length of elastic that starts about 1" before the section of fabric on your side of the V - see photo:
• Start sewing or serging the elastic along the edge of the fabric, beginning at the cut itself - not where the elastic starts.
• Stretch elastic slightly as you sew, as with the leg application.
• When you come to the V on the opposite side of the suit, fold over the side of the V that is closest to you so that it doesn’t get sewn over, and continue sewing elastic to the edge of the fabric - extend the elastic for about 1" beyond the cut - See photo below.
• Repeat elastic application on the other side of the suit, making sure to not sew over the ends of the elastic already sewn:
• Flip the suit right side out, if it’s not already.
• At one of the V intersections, grasp one side of elastic in each hand, and pull them back to form a V that points the opposite direction to how the elastic was sewn. It should be roughly the same angle as the opening of the suit - see below.
• Stitch the new V in place, sewing both sides of the original cut down to the elastic, as shown below. Trim any excess elastic, forming a neat V shape.
• Repeat with the other V.

Flip & Stitch the Elastic

• With one of the leg elastics, turn the elastic over so that the exposed elastic is touching the wrong side of the fabric, and the underside of the seam you just did is facing up.
• Sew another seam along the edge of the elastic (NOT the new edge of the opening). Stretch the garment as you sew this seam.
• This seam can be done in a wide or narrow zig zag (I don’t like using straight stitches on an elastic). Personally, I like to use a very wide zig zag stitch, with a medium stitch length.
• When sewing this finishing seam, try to make sure that the fabric does not bunch up and pucker under.
• To avoid this, pull the garment fabric to the left as you sew, making sure that the fabric lies close to the elastic on the top, with no excess in the fold over.
• Don't worry if your stitching isn't perfect. The elastic will stretch and straighten out a bit when the suit is worn, so imperfections are not all that noticeable.
• Alternatively, you can sew the flipped finishing seam with the suit facing right side up - this is how I prefer to do it.
• Flip the elastic edge under, and position the suit under your presser foot.
• Hold the back part of the suit with your left hand, hook the fingers of your right hand under the upcoming part of the suit, between the elastic and the suit.
• Use those fingers to straighten everything out and pull the suit fabric taut against the elastic as it feeds through your sewing machine.
• Stay stitch (reverse and then forward) at the beginning and continue along, stay stitching again when you loop around and reach the point where you started.
• Repeat with the other leg.

Top Stitching the Waist Elastic

• Starting at one of the side seams, follow the same directions as the legs.
• The V that you created in the last step of the elastic application will hold the shape as you stitch around it, pivoting at the centre of the dip:

To Attach Posing Suit Loops, If Desired

• Using leftover “string” or strap from your bikini top (Separate patterns), cut 2 pieces, about 3" long each.
• Try the posing suit on, pinning or tying the tops’ neck straps / strings in place.
• Cris-cross the long, torso strap/strings behind your back, pinning to where you will eventually want them to connect to the bottom of your posing suit - usually about halfway between the side seam, and the centre back of your suit.
• Pin the bottoms in these two places, making sure they’re symmetrical.
• Fold one string / strap piece in half, and - using the pins as a guide - stitch to the underside of the waistline elastic, letting the loop end extend slightly beyond the edge of the suit.
• Repeat on the other side.

Related posts:

How to Make a String Bikini Top How to Hem Spandex Basic Ice Skating Dress Reputation Leotard Part 2